Recently I received a call from Lou Sassi regarding some questions on the application and coloring, etc. of my slate roofs. I will go into the process, but first, a note on coloring & materials:

Over time, the materials and finishes we use change due because of many factors. In my instruction books, one of the primary components of the coloring and weathering was the use of Prismacolor markers,  most notably the "Cool Gray" series and the "Warm Gray" series. There have been some changes in the Prismacolor series - most notably the warm grays. Here is what we have now..

- The Cool Grays are available in a nice, well priced set from many sources. In general, Prismacolor has moved to sets instead of individual markers

- As for Warm Grays, they are not available in a set and individual values are hard to find. However, there are other alternatives from the ever-changing art supply world. Most notably, a complete range of warm grays from dickblick.com. Ironically, that is where I used to buy many of my individual (not available anymore) Prismacolor Warm Grays. There are other alternatives to be found elsewhere - many on Amazon, too.

https://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-studio-brush-markers/

For shingle application I use 1/2" 3M Scotch 465 ATG Premium Adhesive Transfer Tape. This is pricey, but a roll lasts me years. Best way to buy is to get a 6 pack from Uline as a group buy with some friends. Also single rolls sometimes on Ebay.

For shingles, there are several top flight kit manufacturers selling laser cut shingles. They are all great!

For the process, I can think of no better way to explain than to post the process from one of my instruction books.

Have fun with this!

More pics of this kit & others here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/103194951@N02/albums/

 The Millville Build -Part Three

This is the third and final installment of my rebuild of the river setting with Robinson's Electric adjacent Millville. In this part I finish the river scene and do a change-up with the bridge. 

In the pic below I've finished the stone work on the embankments, added more rockwork to the river and put in more pools to catch the water flowing down the river. Total drop is about 8 inches.

   

 

More falls are added.

 

 

 

...and another view 

 

The original bridge is tested on the existing supports...

Fooling with my laser, maybe try something new...?

I take the original Pratt Truss  bridge (cut down Central Valley) and flip it upside down….

 

 

 

I want a longer bridge so need  to think outside the box - I first remove the original supports.

 

 

 

Supports are removed. Note original location. New supports will be further up the embankments.

 

 

I had been exploring other ideas doing simple mock ups in my laser. This leads to the deck truss shown  at the bottom (of the above photo), but first I test the new supports on my computer using Photoshop (see two photos below). Compared to the original Pratt truss, I gain about 3” in distance between supports.

 

 

 

This is the final mock up ready for installation. At this point I have decided make this bridge functional but not permanent. I will be able to run trains, it will look acceptable and I can enjoy building the final when I have more time. In addition to constructing the bridge from laser board and strip wood, the supports are photo paper (made from one of my rock walls) glued over chipboard. Hard to tell from actual castings. It will be in place for several months.

Below we have the final results. I've completed the deck using a local deck truss RR bridge as a guide - actually a single track version of the bridge after the Hoosac Tunnel East Portal.

 

 

 

Last, below are a couple prototype bridges which will be my guides for the final build using available injection molded bridge girders.

 

 

The Cuttingsville bridge near Ludlow VT. 

T

The Erie Canal Railroad bridge in Lockport, NY.